You're probably thinking -- hey, how come I'm getting this email now?
Has John gone senile and totally forgotten how to read a calendar?
Heck no, I'm not going to be here because I'm headed for.......
........... this will be the first meeting I've missed in the entire history of Sin City Woodworkers!
The featured presenter at this meeting is Jimmy Clewes who is a top rated wood turner. The meeting will begin at 7:00 and as always guests are welcome. Bring chairs as seating is limited. For any questions contact Jamie at 702-631-1870. The studio's address is 2267 West Gowan, unit # 106.
Wednesday, July 9, 2014
Sunday, June 22, 2014
June 2014 Meeting --- Another Full House!
General Business
Lots of business to talk about and Jamie started it by telling you that the media center I entered into the Design in Wood competition was one of 6 that was awarded an Honorable Mention in the Contemporary Furniture category. The Summerlin View published a picture of it this week, here's a LINK to that if you'd be interested in seeing the finished project. I'm humbled and honored to have my original design and work accepted into the show and then shown in our local newspaper. She also told us about Lupe and her success at selling her work. You probably saw the two, Adirondack chairs she's been working on. Like all of her work they featured no less than 5 coats of sanded in Watco and were beautiful. There was a picture of them on Facebook you may have seen. In any case, someone mentioned if she'd sell them after putting all the work into them and she said "sure". Well, next day she had the money and is set to make the next great thing --- congrats to you Lupe!If anyone is looking for work within the woodworking industry Jamie knows of a shop that is looking for someone with experience, not only making cabinets but also doing laminate work. Contact her at the shop (702-631-1870) if that's something you'd be interested in.
Big news about our next meeting in July. It will feature Jimmy Clewes who is a woodturner living in Las Vegas. He is ranked among the top 5 woodturners in the world and he will give a demonstration at the meeting. I've never taken a class from him but from what I've heard he's not only an outstanding woodturner but an interesting speaker/teacher as well. Here's a LINK to his website.
To keep the news coming, there is a new woodworking club that started three months ago. It is the Las Vegas Woodcarvers. The club meets at Woodworkers Emporium every 4th. Saturday of the month. Hours are 9:30-11:30. The club is led by Dennis Patchett and Randy Glau who are both members of the Sin City group. You can see some of the types of work done but we will do everything from caricatures, eggs, apples, relief work, etc. Since the club is in it's infancy, more members means more ideas on how the club will operate. So far one of the members has led us in tutorials on doing the type of faces you see in the center of the picture. If you're a carver or always wanted to know more about it come by the next meeting, June 28th. Woodworkers Emporium is located at 5461 Arville Street, between Tropicana and Russell.
For the Christmas challenge we'll follow the Food Network show, Chopped format. More details will follow but it was decided that the project can be one of your choice that utilizes the following materials: 1" x 6" x 8' piece of lumber (your choice), a dowel, some type of brass fastener, and a non-wood material. These must be featured prominently in the project (75%), it would be nice to take a picture of your materials in their rough form to accompany your work.
Last, but certainly not least:
Jamie has been selected to host a Lie-Nielsen tool event in October !!
Just in case you're not familiar with Lie-Nielsen here is a LINK to their page about their tool events. Mark your calendar and start saving your money!
Show and Tell Session
There was a lot of participation this time for show and tell and everyone did a great job of keeping their presentation to 5 minutes or less. I could see Joe sweating it, looking at the clock, and knowing he had lots of great information to share with us.Beth started off with this beautiful bench she built for her husband that will go in to their bathroom. My first thought was water + wood= uh oh! but I think the finish she put on it will hold up fine. Beth is one of Jamie's students and gets a lot of teasing about her nails and jewelry but this project proves they don't stop her talent. The size of this is 18" x 18" x 30" and the top is made primarily of scraps of wood which were laminated into 3 long strips then cut to size. The frame is traditional mortise and tenon and it's a very nice piece of work.
Neal is one of the members of the carving club I talked about earlier. This is an example of relief carving that he is currently working on. One of the nice things about carving is that, if you can get away with it, it can be done in the air conditioned comfort of your living room instead of your hot shop/garage space.
Another way to carve is through the use of CNC controlled machines. Leo brought in two examples he has done with one of his three, CarveWright machines. This is a Walnut piece that features scenes from the wine country plus an inlayed clock. Unfortunately the other piece he brought in didn't photograph very well. If you were at the meeting you know how cool it was! It was a piece of Corian, about 1/4" thick that had a photograph carved out of it. He mounted it in a box with lighting and it looked pretty darn cool! If you're interested in what CNC can do, here is a LINK to CarveWright.
To help us all with the never ending quest on how to get our tools the sharpest they can be, Eric shared this recent article from Fine Woodworking where the latest offerings of water stones were tested and rated. You may recall Eric's demonstration on sharpening -- he knows a lot about it. He mentioned that having tried many of the stones in the article he agreed with their findings.
Jim has been working on a beautifully crafted and well thought out sewing center for his wife. It's been a work in progress for a year or so and is made of Red Oak. Obviously too big to bring in he brought in several pictures of it to show us. His wife must have been more than pleased since he offered his old ShopVac to anyone in the club who could use it ---- now that he has a Festool that noisy old machine is no longer welcome in his shop!
Ed has been busy at the lathe and showed off this three tiered candy dish made of Myrtle. The center section he thought was Maple. What he's holding is a nicely turned honey dipper -- it's not only made of Olive wood but it's protected and finished with Olive oil as well!
Ted returned from his travels and out of state work with a collection of some new tools. Jamie does have an unofficial title for him as a Tool *&$&%**# but since this is a family publication you'll have to fill in the blank! Here he's holding an antique ink line (China or Japan) and it's just exquisite. Tools of old were not only functional, they were artistically designed to be a work of art as well. Turned handles, filigree on knobs, etching on the metal, etc. Besides this ink line he also showed some clamps from the 1800's, plumb bob, craftsman made router plane, and a copy a rare furniture book.
The last of our show and tell items also made it into the raffle, that was very generous of you Jon! It's a jig used for cutting splines into the sides of a mitered box, you can see the box in his hand. What sets his design apart from others is the fact that you won't destroy the bottom of it during use. There is about an inch of clearance which prevents the blade from cutting the jig. Although the original design was for it to straddle the fence, Joh chose to box in the bottom and guide it against the fence. This made for a much more rigid jig.
Featured Presentation
Joe Hessling gave us a very interesting and informative presentation on ways to go about designing our furniture pieces. Actually, these methods would hold true for anything we plan to build. Like I would tell my students, you don't just go into the workshop to build a table and just start grabbing wood and going to it! This craft requires time and planning for us to be successful and Joe gave us the tools to do that.
Just as most other things in woodworking, there are many ways to go about it and we'll all develop our own methods. His presentation was enhanced by a hand out emailed to all of you prior to the meeting. It's well worth keeping for reference and I'm especially thankful he made that so I don't have to try to give you the information second-hand! In summary, projects will begin with a need, purpose, and an intended use. Then begins the drawing and sketching phase. This can be as simple as the proverbial "drawn on the back of a cocktail napkin" or many carefully drafted and detailed drawings. It's always wise to make mockups, especially of larger pieces so you can see them in actual size. Good materials for that would be cardboard, foam insulation board, plywood, etc. Once those items are determined it's time to consult with your client (paying, spouse, neighbor, or speculation) to get any input. The budget will determine many things such as materials, finish, hardware, etc. Joinery will need to be selected based on your abilities and tools but most importantly what gives the structure and strength required. Then begins the fun part --- the actual construction of the piece.
To help illustrate the presentation he brought in this piece of his work. Along with it were many of the sketches and drawings he made prior to construction. Notice the pull? Joe likes to enhance his work with his own, unique hand carved hardware which adds to the over-all design. As part of the hand out there is a list of reference books he recommended.
Thanks to him for an informative presentation and the time he took to prepare the hand out for us to refer to as we go about this business of woodworking.
Tuesday, June 17, 2014
June 2014 Meeting
Whether you do it "Old School"

Or can handle it "New School"
Please Note: Joe has provided a PDF document which I'll mail out to you in a separate email. It might be to your advantage to print it out and bring it to the meeting so you can follow along easily and take notes if you want.
Show & Tell
As always, we will have a short show and tell session at the beginning of the meeting. I understand that we may be surprised at a piece that Beth plans to share with us. Please keep your show and tell to less than 5 minutes so we don't take away time from our featured presenter.The Purpose of our Raffles
Something new for our meetings is to have a raffle at the end. Let me explain the purpose and reasoning behind this new addition. We have always had a voluntary dues of $20.00 per year which covers the cost of the MeetUp site, our Christmas party, and gift cards for random drawings and contest winners. There have been requests to bring in outside speakers to demonstrate or hold workshops but these folks charge money! Here is where the raffle comes in -- most of us have experienced buying a tool, book, or instructional DVD that we were sure we needed but then once we had it in our hands it really wasn't what we thought it was after all. Maybe you have some extra parts, knobs, hinges, etc. that are just gathering dust and taking up space you could put to better use.
Ted belonged to a large woodworking group in San Diego that used this concept to generate funds for things members thought would enhance the group. If you have anything that you would like to donate, bring it in and give it to Ted. He will also be the one selling the raffle tickets at the beginning of the meeting. I'm sure there will be an opportunity to buy tickets just prior to the drawing if you notice a "must have" item you want to take a chance on. In case there aren't enough items brought in for a particular meeting he'll hold on to them and we'll have the raffle at the next meeting.
Time and Place
As always, the meeting will be held at Studio: Wood It Is! aka as "Jamie's place". Her phone number is 702-631-1870 if you have any questions. The address is 2267 West Gowan #106. Visitors are always welcome and remember to bring a chair as seating is limited.
See you then --- John
Friday, May 23, 2014
May Meeting
The meeting started with our traditional, round robin self introductions. There were about 30 people in attendance with lots of new faces. I think there was a record set on the number of new folks signing up for this blog --- seven!! Welcome to all of you, it's great to see the woodworking community here in Las Vegas growing. I just checked and I have 87 contact cards in my address book that get this blog every month. We usually average around 28-35 members at each meeting.
Business Stuff
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Jamie Calls Us to Order |
Once we completed our introductions which this time included a rousing round of applause for the new members! Jamie called the meeting to order. There wasn't a lot of business to attend to but here are the items that were brought up:
- There is some interest in organizing field trips, either in town or out of town, to visit things of interest. One of the things that came up was the Gambel House in Pasadena. If you're a fan of Craftsman and/or Greene and Greene style it's a must see. Here's an interesting LINK to it. If you hear of something related to woodwork and want to turn it into a group, social affair let others know about it. You could contact me and I'll send it out to the group as a blog post. Another one I thought of is Sam Maloof's home in Southern California.
- Jamie has arranged to have Jimmy Clewes be our featured presenter for the July meeting. He is a world renowned wood turner who lives in Las Vegas. This is HUGE!! check out this LINK to his website and learn a bit more about him. (alas, I'll be on vacation so this is the second meeting I've missed since the club started over 5 years ago)
- Last Christmas we had our 2" x 4" x 8' challenge which was a great end of the year contest. It's been decided to do another for this year but think of a different one. In the past we also had a challenge to show your favorite style of push stick -- what can you come up with that will appeal to everyone of any skill level? Bring your ideas to the next meeting.
Show & Tell:
There were a few items brought in for show and tellThis month. This is the time to share something you've accomplished, built, learned about, etc. with the rest of the group. Try to limit this to about a 5 minute presentation so we don't take away time from the featured presenter.
The first was this very intricately designed cutting board by Pete. You really have to see it up close to comprehend the complexity of this design. It features a 3 part center and everything is cut at a 45 degree angle, glued up, then re-assembled into the design you see here. I'm sure you can imagine the amount of hours and precision it takes to produce a piece such as this --- stunning! Pete mentioned that the design is one from a guy who goes by the name of Sinister, here's a LINK to his blog. If you search through that you should be able to find out how to make this and other designs of his.
Ed is continuing to keep busy on his lathe and showed these latest examples of his work. There were two bowls of Claro Walnut. Ed mentioned that he bought from someone here in Las Vegas by the name of Cecil Fridi. Now, this probably won't mean much to you but Ed gave me his card and I checked out the website, here's a LINK to it so you too can check it out. This man has a 5000 square foot shop where he stores and dries wood primarily for gun stocks but as Ed showed with his bowl, the wood has many other uses too. Might be the place to go for those smaller pieces of "show wood" for your special project.
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Sapele and Big Leaf Maple TV Cabinet |
Feature Presentation
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Richard and the Worksharp |
Sharpening --- one of the main requirements to successful woodworking and, as Rich pointed out; another one of those things were if you ask 10 people how they do it you'll get 12 different answers! His bottom line is very true: "find a method that you like and works for you and then stick with it". He has found that for him, the Worksharp System works the best. Here's an Amazon LINK to the system so you can price it, see the various accessories for it, plus read other users reviews. Richard promised that there may be a freebie associated with his demonstration and there was! Very interesting how he took that fine set of Kobalt Chisels from Lowe's, sharpened one of them on this system, and then gave the set to the winner. That raffle was won by Danny who was a first time attender at one of our meetings!
The Worksharp system uses a spinning piece of glass (5/8" thick) which has pieces of abrasive paper attached to it. This allows you to work your way "through the grits" when sharpening an edge. The system is ideal for chisels and plane blades with added accessories which he demonstrated too.
Richard began his talk with a brief explanation of sharpening. Essentially, a sharp edge is the intersection of two planes. This angle is usually 20 to 35 degrees when we're talking about chisel and plane blades. On a new tool the process begins with first flattening the back and then setting the desired angle. The quality of the tool steel will determine how hard it is to sharpen the edge but also how long that edge will hold. The Kobalt chisels were very easy to grind because of the soft, poor quality steel in them. On the other end of the spectrum, tools made by Lie-Nielsen, Lee Valley, BlueSpruce, etc. use steel designated as A2 or 01 and will take much more time to sharpen properly.
As you can see in this picture, the Worksharp system has a port on the side with an adjustable guide. The guide is set for the desired angle and then adjusted to the width of the chisel. This guide allows you to feed the chisel up to the bottom of the rotating disc that has your abrasive paper on it. The first step of preparing a tool is being demonstrated here as well. In this instance the abrasive is on top of the wheel and Richard is flattening the back of the tool prior to shaping the angle. The chisel is supported by an auxiliary table. Since this process does generate some heat it's important to have some water handy to keep the tool cool. If you overheat the metal while sharpening it changes the molecular makeup of the steel --- in other words you can ruin it!
Let's talk about sharpening, when you look at an edge, you may or may not notice machining marks. The quality of the tool to begin with will determine how prominent these marks are. The higher quality and priced tools will exhibit less of these marks than lower priced ones. These marks and the subsequent marks you'll put into the tool as you sharpen it are also referred to as the scratch pattern.
Notice the scratches made during the grinding process on the bevel? Your goal is to eliminate them and create a highly polished, almost mirror like finish on your edge. Similar to sanding a piece of wood, you're basically "scratching" the surface with your sandpaper and work up to such a fine scratch pattern that it appears smooth to the eye. The chisel shown has the scratch pattern put on at the factory with a grinding wheel of some type. Cheaper tools leave it at that and it's up to you to refine and polish that edge. Here's the same chisel after a little bit of work with the Worksharp:
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Refined Edge |
Although the entire bevel should be done, you can see the difference in the front portion of it. There is a swirl pattern created by the circular action of the spinning disc. Notice though that it appears shinier. Grinding and then polishing the edge on finer abrasives give you a more durable, longer lasting edge on the chisel or plane blade. Whenever you sharpen the bevel you'll notice a burr on the back side of the blade. This indicates you've exposed new metal and therefor have a new edge. This burr needs to be removed in the same manner you flattened the back. Once the chisel was sharpened it was used to cut some end grain, that's a good test of your tools sharpness.
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Test Cut |
If it makes a smooth cut in end grain you know you've achieved a sharp edge. Plane blades require an accessory table and holding device which Rich is demonstrating here:
Here is a LINK to it from the Amazon website. As I mentioned at the beginning of this blog, there are numerous ways to achieve a sharp edge on your tools. As you delve into it more you'll probably be overwhelmed! Rich's advice at the beginning is good to keep in mind: "find the system that works for you and you're happy with and then stick with it". Last of all, he recommended this Website from Stumpy Nubs as informative and amusing.
Tuesday, May 20, 2014
May Meeting: Wednesday the 21st.
Is this how YOU get an edge on?
If so, you really won't want to miss tomorrows meeting!!!
This months meeting will feature a demonstration by Richard Daugherty who will share his method of sharpening tools. As you no doubt realize, having sharp tools makes our work much easier and controllable. There are volumes written and at least a zillion blogs, video's, and "best ways" on the internet dealing with sharpening but to actually watch someone who's mastered the skill do it right there in front of you is priceless! Rich uses the Worksharp System which, according to their literature; is a relatively easy and mess free system to achieve that keen edge we all desire. Rumor has it that not only will he show his method and some of the Worksharp accessories, there's also a chance for us in attendance to win a prize. Here's your opportunity to come away from the meeting with more than just invaluable knowledge so you won't want to miss it.
In addition to Rich's presentation we will have our usual business meeting and announcements. Show and tell as always is a way to share your latest accomplishment, learning experience, or wood related information. It's always a treat to see what others have been up to since our last time together.
As always, the meeting will be at Studio: Wood It Is! located at 2267 W. Gowan Road, unit 106. You know the drill about bringing in additional seating if needed and new folks are always welcome. The meeting starts at 7:00 pm. Should you need directions or have any questions call Jamie at 702-631-1870.
See you there!
Saturday, April 19, 2014
April Meeting Blog
Our April meeting began with 30+ members and guests in attendance. Really good attendance again, Jamie jokingly said she may have to knock down a wall to get all of us together, and there was a full house:
After our customary, round robin self introductions we had a short business section. A couple of items discussed were the voluntary dues of $20.00. Next month will be the last time they'll be collected and all of those monies goes to maintain the MeetUp site, pay for any outside speakers, and also fund the end of the year Christmas party. That is the years highlight with food, social time, and gift certificates to Lee Valley. Last year we gave out about $400.00 worth. Your name is automatically entered into the drawing when your a dues paying member and additional entries are given if you do a demonstration for the group.
The Makers Faire was held earlier this month. It's a new event designed to draw people to the downtown area. One of our members, Tom McGrady, had a booth set up featuring his Las Vegas Swings. His goal was to attract the attention of Zappo's since there "corporate vibe" is a laid back one and he did! Last I heard they were scheduled to come to his shop to see all of his work and (finger's crossed!) place an order with him. Here is a LINK to his website, his work is fantastic.
Bill Patten brought in his magnetic, resaw fence for his bandsaw that was talked about during Joe's bandsaw demonstration. No picture of his but here's a LINK so you can buy one of your own!
Farmer's Markets are a place where some of the members have set up booths to sell their work. They work but you do have an initial cost of tent, display shelving or table, and entry fees. Pete Hauser mentioned that he could possibly get members a booth space at Tivoli Village for free or a reduced price that would include those items. Contact him if you're interested in doing that. Speaking of Pete, he brought in this checkerboard for show and tell. I noticed that Ed also had bowls that he turned but the darn, featured speaker took so much time the show and tell section of our meeting was cut short --- sorry about that!
When the subject of showing and selling our work came up the question was how do you find out about these things if you're interested in them. One good source for us here in the western USA is a magazine called Woodworkers West. It's relatively inexpensive and is full of all sorts of information pertinent to us, here is a LINK to their website.
The last bit of business came about when someone asked what the best way to store lumber is. Do you lay it flat?; do you set it upright?; store it under the bed?; etc. In the discussion that followed I was reminded of Jamie's statement: "ask 10 woodworkers the same question and you'll get 12 answers!" I think the bottom line is that you have to store it based on your space and work habits. I'd love to a basement like James Krenov has in his book but I'm stuck buying just enough for my current work and then trying to figure out what to do with the usable scraps.
I had the honor of being the featured presenter at this month's meeting and first of all I want to tell you how I appreciated your attention and interest in it. When Jamie asked how many of you had ever hand cut dovetails very few of you raised your hands. They are a very traditional joint and modern technology allows us to do similar work in quicker ways. With routers, jigs, and computer guided tooling the hand cut work is becoming rare. I'm among those furniture makers that really enjoys the process of the work, although it may get frustrating!
Before I began there were a couple of things that generated some questions. One of those is the portable bench I used. This is one I use for carving, joinery, routing, etc. I like that it's portable and it brings the work closer to me. Being in my sixth decade the higher working height keeps me from having to struggle straightening up after being bent over the workbench! I made this bench from plans in Fine Woodworking Magazine by Jeff Miller. This was the March/April issue of 2005 so you can probably find them online in their archives. Another question was regarding the tools. My advice to students is to buy the tools as you need them. It's foolish to drop hundreds of dollars on a set of chisels and dovetail saw when you're not even sure you'll like the work. My first joints were cut with the same Stanley plastic handled chisels I used as a carpenter in the early 70's. As my interest and skills progressed I invested in better tools -- that's what I'd suggest you do too.
I'll briefly explain the process I went through at our meeting with the help of these photo's. As usual, Lupe has done an outstanding job documenting what I showed plus she took this really video that's posted on YouTube. She edited it and it will give you a good idea of what I did and jog your memory. Here's a LINK to that on YouTube. I was glad that Jamie asked how many of you had ever done hand cut dovetails and there wasn't an overwhelming majority. I hope my demonstration didn't overwhelm you but instead inspires you to try to make them on your own! I love this craft and am happy to be able to share it.
The slope of a dovetail is referred to as 1:6 and 1:8. That's set with a sliding bevel square by drawing a perpendicular line on a board. Next you measure out 1" at the bottom and also measure 6" or 8" up on that line. With the sliding bevel square you connect those two points and there's your angle. There are numerous dedicated dovetail markers on the market or you could make your own.
The drawer front needs to have the thickness of the drawer side and the length of the dovetail scribed on it. Customarily, 1/3 of the thickness of the front will remain to conceal the dovetail. The trick I showed you was using a 1/4" piece of plastic to set the marking gauge first. Since my piece was 3/4" thick that's the 1/3 and a line was scribed from the front face. Next, I re-set the marking gauge to that line from the inside of the drawer. That setting was scribed onto the drawer sides to establish the length of the dovetails.
The traditional way is to use a plane laying on its side. then adjust the drawer front in the vise level with the plane. I prefer using a block of wood like in this photo. This was always somewhat tricky since you needed to make sure things were lined up squarely. Unless you use the Stanley 140 trick I showed you by rabbeting the front of the drawer things are hard to control. Here's a LINK to a blog I did a few years ago on how you can do this trick without the Stanley, skewed rabbet planes. If you don't have a tenoning jig you can carefully guide the board, upright against your rip fence. I'd recommend making a jig that fits over your fence and supports the piece to be safer.
An alternative joint you can use for drawers is this one, here the drawer front is rabbeted and the sides are doweled to lock the two together. By using a contrasting colored dowel this becomes a strong and decorative joint.
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The Makers Faire was held earlier this month. It's a new event designed to draw people to the downtown area. One of our members, Tom McGrady, had a booth set up featuring his Las Vegas Swings. His goal was to attract the attention of Zappo's since there "corporate vibe" is a laid back one and he did! Last I heard they were scheduled to come to his shop to see all of his work and (finger's crossed!) place an order with him. Here is a LINK to his website, his work is fantastic.
Bill Patten brought in his magnetic, resaw fence for his bandsaw that was talked about during Joe's bandsaw demonstration. No picture of his but here's a LINK so you can buy one of your own!
Farmer's Markets are a place where some of the members have set up booths to sell their work. They work but you do have an initial cost of tent, display shelving or table, and entry fees. Pete Hauser mentioned that he could possibly get members a booth space at Tivoli Village for free or a reduced price that would include those items. Contact him if you're interested in doing that. Speaking of Pete, he brought in this checkerboard for show and tell. I noticed that Ed also had bowls that he turned but the darn, featured speaker took so much time the show and tell section of our meeting was cut short --- sorry about that!
When the subject of showing and selling our work came up the question was how do you find out about these things if you're interested in them. One good source for us here in the western USA is a magazine called Woodworkers West. It's relatively inexpensive and is full of all sorts of information pertinent to us, here is a LINK to their website.
The last bit of business came about when someone asked what the best way to store lumber is. Do you lay it flat?; do you set it upright?; store it under the bed?; etc. In the discussion that followed I was reminded of Jamie's statement: "ask 10 woodworkers the same question and you'll get 12 answers!" I think the bottom line is that you have to store it based on your space and work habits. I'd love to a basement like James Krenov has in his book but I'm stuck buying just enough for my current work and then trying to figure out what to do with the usable scraps.
I had the honor of being the featured presenter at this month's meeting and first of all I want to tell you how I appreciated your attention and interest in it. When Jamie asked how many of you had ever hand cut dovetails very few of you raised your hands. They are a very traditional joint and modern technology allows us to do similar work in quicker ways. With routers, jigs, and computer guided tooling the hand cut work is becoming rare. I'm among those furniture makers that really enjoys the process of the work, although it may get frustrating!
Before I began there were a couple of things that generated some questions. One of those is the portable bench I used. This is one I use for carving, joinery, routing, etc. I like that it's portable and it brings the work closer to me. Being in my sixth decade the higher working height keeps me from having to struggle straightening up after being bent over the workbench! I made this bench from plans in Fine Woodworking Magazine by Jeff Miller. This was the March/April issue of 2005 so you can probably find them online in their archives. Another question was regarding the tools. My advice to students is to buy the tools as you need them. It's foolish to drop hundreds of dollars on a set of chisels and dovetail saw when you're not even sure you'll like the work. My first joints were cut with the same Stanley plastic handled chisels I used as a carpenter in the early 70's. As my interest and skills progressed I invested in better tools -- that's what I'd suggest you do too.
I'll briefly explain the process I went through at our meeting with the help of these photo's. As usual, Lupe has done an outstanding job documenting what I showed plus she took this really video that's posted on YouTube. She edited it and it will give you a good idea of what I did and jog your memory. Here's a LINK to that on YouTube. I was glad that Jamie asked how many of you had ever done hand cut dovetails and there wasn't an overwhelming majority. I hope my demonstration didn't overwhelm you but instead inspires you to try to make them on your own! I love this craft and am happy to be able to share it.
Wood Prep and Lay-out
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Setting the Angle |
The first step to the process is having your pieces absolutely square and the opposing pieces must be the exact size. For boxes and drawers I prefer to cut the groove (dado) that will house the bottom before I begin cutting the joinery. The advantage to me is that you now know which part of each board will be at the bottom and inside. Keeping track of which board goes where and marking them for their final position is critical. The other reason for cutting that groove is to accurately lay out the tails to conceal it.
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Length of Dovetail on Front |
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Length of Dovetail on Side |
The last mark that needed to be scribed is on the inside of the drawer front and that's the thickness of the drawer sides. To do that, gauge the thickness directly from the side piece and transfer it to the front.
Cutting the Joint -- Tails First
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Both Sides ready for Lay-out |
There's an ongoing debate among woodworkers as to what cuts first, pins or tails? I'm a tails first kind of guy so that's how I teach it. I always encourage students to try both and then use the method that feels best to them. Lay out of the tails will depend on your skill level and what you're after. I like to vary sizes and spacing as proof of them being hand cut. Other's like to make the tiniest pin possible to show their skill. I find it easier to saw accurately by clamping both sides together and cutting them at one time. I usually clamp them with a parallel clamp (forgot it at home!) and put the outside faces on the inside. This way I can see the groove and being face to face minimizes tear out while cutting. For a simple piece like this I laid out the sides to conceal the groove as my main goal. Next I located the center and measured out about 1/8 to give me a fairly small pin there.
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Cutting the Tails |
Practice cutting before you start out on the real thing. Allow the weight of the saw to carry it through to the line and don't force it. If you practice, in time you'll develop muscle memory that will yield square, consistent cuts. A little bit of beeswax works wonders on saw blades and plane bottoms as well. A few asked where I got mine and if you do a Google search you'll find many vendors for a block of it -- lasts forever! Start the saw at an angle and concentrate on duplicating the tail angle as you cut squarely across the top. After those cuts you need to remove the outside pieces with a saw. I like to cut a slight V-shape with a chisel before using the saw, that will help you get the saw started. The inner waste is chiseled out. Again, if you cut a V-shaped cut on the shoulder line like I demonstrated it'll be easier to remove that waste. That V gives the bevel of the chisel some clearance and helps you cut a good shoulder. Once things are square and looking good it's time to transfer the tail board over to the pin board for cutting.
Cutting the Drawer Front Pins
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Drawer side ready for Scribing |
A better way to support the wood while transferring your tails is with the jig I showed. It insures that the front and sides of the drawer are aligned. To transfer these markings I recommend using a marking knife as it gives you a physical groove to saw to rather than a pencil line which can go away.
Always mark your waste as soon as you lay things out --- trust me on this one!
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Transferring the Tails |
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Chopping shoulder, Tape used as a depth gauge |
Now we are ready to cut with a dovetail saw. The technique here is cutting on the waste side of the line. After carefully cutting to both shoulder lines and inside the waste area it's time to chisel things out. I demonstrated two methods, one where you chop on the shoulder, then come from the end of the board to remove the chip.
The other is making a series of cuts down to the line with a smaller chisel, gradually working your way back to the shoulder line.
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Fishtail Chisel |
Once the bulk of the material is removed it's time for trial and error refining of the joint. Honestly, I'm running out of words here! For the corners it's best to use a pair of skew chisels or a fishtail like I use from Lie-Nielsen. This is a wonderful tool for this job, here's a LINK to it. The sides of the board can be trimmed with smaller chisels and you'll find you have more control cutting across the grain.
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Trimming Sides |
Remember the piece of plastic I set my marking gauge to at the beginning? This is used to help you cut a smooth area for the dovetail to fit into.
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Trick to a Smooth Web |
Although it's not quite ready for prime time, here's what I accomplished by the end of the day. Keep in mind that these require concentrated effort to accomplish successfully. Usually the only audience I have is my radio! If you enjoy the process of woodwork then this may be your next challenge. Consider making the holding jig using dovetails or even a simple bench hook --- anything to get the practice and develop your "muscle memory". Here is a picture of one of the drawers of my current project:
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Sapele front with Maple sides |

Once again, I appreciate the attention you all gave me during this complicated demonstration. Trying to recap it all in writing for the blog makes me realize just how complex this process is!
Tuesday, April 15, 2014
April Meeting Coming Up ---- Wednesday the 16th.
This is your reminder to set aside tomorrow night for our April meeting. As usual the meeting will start at 7am and is at Jamie's studio: Wood It Is. The address is 2267 West Gowan, unit 106. The public is invited but remember there is a limited number of chairs/stools available so if you'd like you should bring your own.
We're still collecting the voluntary dues of $20.00 which goes towards the end of the year Christmas party food and gift certificates. Even though Ted is out of town for this meeting, Bill Patten will be running the raffle if you should have anything to donate to the club coffers. Things like tools, plans, instructional DVD's, extra project parts, etc. Anything that's collecting dust and taking up space that you feel may be of value to someone else. That money also goes for gift certificates and any outside speaker we may want to bring in.
There will also be our customary show and tell which gives us an opportunity to share our latest work. As always, please try to keep your presentation to 5 minutes or so to allow ample time for the featured presentation. Talking with Dennis and Ted who are in charge of scheduling our featured presenters I know there is a need for them. This would be a good time to share what you've done, learned, or figured out with the rest of the group.
Speaking of the featured presentation, this week it will be on:
Pardon the pun but I had to inject some frivolity into this blog some way or another! This presentation is one I'm going to do. I'll demonstrate how to lay out and cut half blind dovetails like you typically find on drawer construction. Through dovetails are somewhat easier to do but I plan to share my techniques plus some of the tricks I use to make this joint easier to cut. Chisels, mallet, marking gauges, and dovetail saws will be used for this demo, no power tools. Thanks to Tom McGrady, who offered to help me bring in my current project; I'll be able to illustrate different areas dovetails are used in traditional furniture construction. Hope to see all of you there. Jamie's shop phone number is 702-631-1870 if you need directions to her place.
We're still collecting the voluntary dues of $20.00 which goes towards the end of the year Christmas party food and gift certificates. Even though Ted is out of town for this meeting, Bill Patten will be running the raffle if you should have anything to donate to the club coffers. Things like tools, plans, instructional DVD's, extra project parts, etc. Anything that's collecting dust and taking up space that you feel may be of value to someone else. That money also goes for gift certificates and any outside speaker we may want to bring in.
There will also be our customary show and tell which gives us an opportunity to share our latest work. As always, please try to keep your presentation to 5 minutes or so to allow ample time for the featured presentation. Talking with Dennis and Ted who are in charge of scheduling our featured presenters I know there is a need for them. This would be a good time to share what you've done, learned, or figured out with the rest of the group.
Speaking of the featured presentation, this week it will be on:
Half-
Blind
Dovetails!
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